Belgian visionary Dries van Noten always has a strong point of view, one accompanied by perfect tailoring and architectural takes on power dressing. Today at Paris Fashion Week, his collection invoked old money and yachting clubs viewed through a murderous lens—very Pride and Prejudice and Zombies, if its sequel were The Great, Immortal, Bloodsucking Gatsby.
Cheetah print threaded through the show—especially good in a pair of astonishingly luxurious, kinetic wide-legged trousers—but its severe, nigh-zoot suits were anchored by a crisp, Ivy League-invoking insignia and slicked-back combovers, as though he’d figured out a way to challenge those old, gross, men-only billiards rooms and cigar clubs: ladies sneak in, then drink the boys’s blood.