Soft Deconstruction With Vera Wang


Vera Wang’s spring collection was unusually dark. Models dressed mostly in black and gray walked a gray carpeted runway, and even the occasional colors — puce, blush pink, chartreuse, formica yellow, crimson — seemed somber. Still, the show was beautiful.

There was a repeated emphasis on this loosely kimono-inspired wrap top shape.

And many looks incorporated layers of sheer fabrics, which gave some interesting variety to the textures on display.

The dresses done in hand-ruched silk tulle, with their asymmetry and their long, trailing tendrils of tulle, were gorgeous in a kind of undone Tim Burton way.

Sometimes, though, the layering of contrasting textures didn’t quite come off.

The Japanese influence continued with the incorporation of this floral printed silk fabric.

And the sequined flowers on this bolero are apparently chrysanthemums.

There were also some garments made of softly shredded and gathered jersey. Prabal Gurung worked along some similar lines for his spring collection, too.

It’s hard to see in front-on pictures, but most of the skirts had these 3-D projections of folded fabric that swooped out from the waist. They looked a little like pouches.

A lot of the collection had thickly rolled, gathered edges. The added weight made the tube-like hems swing as the models walked.

Maybe it was just me, but I saw this plastic fringed tunic and thought, ‘Prada FW 07.’

This pink dress closed the show. Vera Wang seems to be pushing us all towards a dark, refined glamor for spring. Who wants to follow her?

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