Girls On Wheels: Penny Marshall and Carrie Fisher Forever
LatestPenny Marshall and I were the bridesmaids in Carrie Fisher’s wedding to Paul Simon. This was 1983 and there was a select group of friends invited to go along on their honeymoon up the Nile. We were watched over by a silent Egyptian crew who cooked for us, steered the boat, cleaned the cabins, and catered to our whims. We were the pop-rock pharaohs, starring Paul Simon and his best man, Lorne Michaels, Carrie Fisher as the princess bride, Penny Marshall and me and Susan Forristal, Lorne’s beloved. The rest of the wedding party was featured in supporting roles as court jesters. We had our own full-time tour guide, a long-suffering and long-winded Egyptologist named Ibrahim, who knew everything about everywhere. He would reveal these things to us from temple to temple in excellent British-English. Poor Ibrahim was subject to continuing comedic interruptions. Penny would break into song whenever he brought up the great pharaoh, Akhenaton: “Akh-en-aton, tweet, tweedle-ee-dee; Ak-hen-aton, tweet. Go Ak-hen-aton, ‘cause we’re really gonna rock tonight!”
We were told that daytime heat would vary from 100 to 120 degrees. Wedding party ladies-in-waiting were warned not to flounce around in next to nothing. Some of the women on the streets of Cairo were dressed in modern clothes, but the women we saw in Luxor, our launching point, were draped in heavy black chadors with head covering. The men flapped around in pastel cotton galabias, so thin you could almost see through them.
Bright and early, day one, after a breakfast of beans spiced with cumin seeds at the Grand Hotel Luxor, Penny and I decided to rent bikes while everyone else slept in. By 8 a.m., with heat hovering at 108, we hatched an insane scheme to walk our bikes to the river, catch a ferry, and pedal across the blistering plain past the gigantic Colossi of Memnon. These are the matching statues of Amenhotep III, both faces erased by time. The monuments that inspired Percy Shelley’s Ozymandias, the Kings of Kings.
The bike rental boy checked Penny and me out with friendly appreciation. We had turned out for this escapade through the sands of time in California sauna-style of short shorts and T-shirts.
We wandered to the landing just as the ferry docked. Hundreds of people got off and were swarming up the gangplank with chickens and goats. Hundreds more waited to swarm on to make the return trip. Penny and I were swept along in sticky clumps, shuffling up the ramp, smushed toward the lower decks.
The ferry grumbled off. As we tried to keep from treading others’ feet with our bike wheels, a low murmur lifted up from the women. It was that sound Arab women make with their tongues called ululation. This high-pitched minor-key tenor mimics the onrushing of flocks, birdlike but mechanical, as if car alarms are going off in the distance. The sound is so forbidding in its urgency, and in this case, screeching in proximity, that Penny whispers, “Is it us?”
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