Does the Perfect Butter Ornament Exist? I Asked the World’s Pre-Eminent Butter Ornament Collector
Abby Spudich is on a quest for the perfect butter ornament, and there are few things I’m more fond of than someone pouring time and effort into a joyful bit.
Entertainment

Cheer, charity, good will—all acceptable reasons for the season, sure, sure, whatever. But when you take a moment to consider the true appeal of the holidays it comes down to two things: baked goods and indulgence. And what better symbolizes those values than the stick of butter? Fundamental and simple, butter’s central role in the season hasn’t been overlooked, but it has, I think, been underappreciated.
Perhaps that’s why when I came across Abby Spudich’s Instagram account–where she’s been documenting her hunt for the perfect butter ornament–a sense of urgency rose within me. She must find the perfect butter ornament, I told myself. I must bear witness to this mission. Butter, in all its holiness, deserves to be evangelized. I now kneel at the altar where the spatula is licked.
You’ve probably seen or maybe already own a butter ornament. In recent years, kitschy and ironic ornaments have decorated more and more branches. Last year, the New York Times reported that the retailer Cody Foster & Co. saw a 450% increase in butter ornament sales from 2018/2019 to 2020. To me, it’s the perfect blend of a millennial’s fondness for nostalgic whimsy and the pandemic-induced obsession with home decor and baking. Whip it together and you get a butter ornament.
@abby.spinach The platonic ideal of butter ornaments 🧈 I got the @Bloomingdales ornament for $16.99 and the Cody Foster one was $12.99 from @Friends NYC thank you especially to @taylor swift earrings 💖 💖 for sending me these earrings!! i’m obsessed! #2023christmastrends #foodornaments #butterornament #midwesternculture #codyfosterchristmas #blackfridayhaul
Abby, who recently moved back home to southern Illinois to attend graduate school for speech language pathology, started documenting her collection of butter ornaments this fall. She’s since gained thousands of followers on both Instagram and TikTok. She also created, what I imagine to be, the world’s first and most comprehensive butter ornament data sheet. Why is she doing this? “For fun,” she says in an Instagram video. “If you don’t understand, then I can’t explain it to you.”
But if you do understand, her videos detail the distinctions between the different butter ornaments on the market. The Home Goods’ butter ornament ($6.99), for example, hangs vertically and takes liberty with the copy on the wrapper, which reads “Life is Better with Butter.” The gold sheen on the glass butter ornament from World Market elevates the form, but unfortunately, it shattered while Abby was putting it on the tree. “It does feel like dark forces were at work,” she tells me with a straight face, recounting her cursed journey to World Market. “I traveled 40 minutes to the Brentwood Plaza parking lot…Everyone knows that is like, the Bermuda Triangle of Missouri.” I didn’t know that, but I am listening with rapt attention. She’s managed to portray this absolutely inconsequential quest, one I’m checking in on daily, with the perfect amount of funny and self-aware gravity.
“Is this too niche? Am I taking this too seriously? Sound off in the comments,” she asks in a video. “No no go on you have my attention,” one person wrote. Over 500 people liked the comment.
There are few things I am more fond of than someone unabashedly pouring time, effort, and money into a joyful and harmless bit. I think that makes it perfectly emblematic of the reason for the season: indulgence. Below is a conversation I had with the butter ornament queen, edited and condensed for clarity, not unlike the delicacy of the hour: butter.
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