
Almost as if the show wasn’t sure what to do with all that money, RuPaul’s Drag Race has had a rocky transition to Vh1 from the admittedly lower production values and viewership it enjoyed on Logo. While the Drag Race sets and challenges, and the queens out of drag, look more sophisticated than the old days in the fancier new digs, the last few seasons have also felt too manufactured, with each queen chosen to fill a quota: quirky, pageant, comedy, fashion. The talent and even the drama had gotten so rote that by Season 11, my weekly check-ins with the Race had begun to feel similar to dutifully eating lemon cookies while watching Bold and the Beautiful with my grandma once a week in high school. I did it because I loved her, long after the storyline became a bit boring.
All that is to say that I am very, very optimistic about Season 12 after Friday’s premiere. Production made excellent use of the intro. It was split into two parts—a stunt that annoyed me in Season 6—but this year, the extra time read like a thoughtful attempt to show many sides of queens who seem much more likely to break out of their big pink boxes and deliver unexpected performances. When Jackie Cox, whose Annette Funicello schtick might have suggested she’s simply an aspiring Bianca, was asked what type of queen she was, Cox replied, “I’m an everything queen.”
Everything Queen seemed to be the category for so many in the two-look runway show that introduced us to each contestant’s drag. The challenge was to present spring and fall looks, perhaps to highlight Season 12’s pivot to multifaceted queens. Widow Von’Du, who is also a rapper back in Kansas City, showed real fashion chops in her hooded neon onesie partially unzipped to reveal the first of what seems to be many peekaboo bikini tops. In contrast to her oddly dull oatmeal-colored autumnal garment, Widow’s spring look was at once a throwback to classic Missy Elliot videos and perhaps a subtle nod to Kigurumi couture that read unexpected and fresh.

Jackie also pushed past the comedy vibes to surprisingly slay in a 1960s Pucci throwback, introducing a Valley of the Dolls aesthetic that I am in love with. And god bless Gigi Goode’s costume designer mother who sent her little boy to camp Drag Race properly prepared with latex pasties and garter-belt riding boots, complete with habit, helmet, and crop for an equestrian look that announced Gigi as the Season 12 Instagram queen fully ready to be ridden hard and put away wet. French queen Nicky Doll seems like the other fashion queen frontrunner, and her feminized tux was flawless even if it wasn’t quite as fun as Gigi’s creations. Another standout was Crystal Methyd, who wore a homemade Freddy Kreuger-inspired safety-pinned oversized sweater that I need in my life right now along with a wig made of Band-Aids. She looked clever and fun, with the baldhead a callback to the premiere of Season 4 when Sharon Needles changed the runway game forever with the help of a hairless pate and a mouth full of blood packets.
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