What's Up With Testing Cosmetics on Animals?

There are several reasons animal testing has declined in the past few decades. According to Clerc, most ingredients in makeup have already been extensively tested and determined to be safe. There are very few companies out there making new ingredients and the few that are have other methods of testing available. Clerc notes that many companies use artificial skin, eyeballs from slaughterhouses, and L’Oreal recently started working with a bio-tech company to 3-D print skin. Clerc noted that there are no alternatives to testing products for cancer, but added that since most of the ingredients are already deemed safe, this is only an issue for companies who are innovating.

Of course, it’s not like research labs are going to free all their bunnies if this bill passes. Clerc admits that there is a lot of cross over between ingredients used in cosmetics and in over-the-counter drugs. Ingredients that are approved for use in over-the-counter drugs are subject to rigorous testing and yes, that includes on animals.

When I asked Clerc if she thought this meant that industry would try to side-step a bill that outlawed animal testing on cosmetics, by claiming they were all drugs, she said she didn’t think so. “Most companies have adjusted to not using animal testing by now, most ingredients are deemed safe and the industry is investing in new technologies for testing, trying to get around the rules is not an issue.”

The bill seems to be all fur and no fangs, which might explain why it went nowhere the first time it was introduced in the previous congressional year. Further, enforcing the bill would be a problem since the FDA doesn’t have the mandate or the money to just bust into a lab and free animals. Enforcement would be self-regulated. Clerc noted that after a similar ban was passed in the European Union in 2013, the Humane Society set up a hotline for people to report violations. Clerc said she knew of no reported violations and admitted that this may be because the practice of testing cosmetics on animals has largely ended.

So, why pass the bill then? If animal testing is such a moot point, why even bother? Clerc claims that it’s necessary to outlaw the practice. “Just because most companies don’t, doesn’t mean they won’t,” she said. Also, it’s a symbolic gesture to pressure other countries like China that do require animal testing on their cosmetics. Clerc stresses the need for the U.S. to set a precedent on the issue so that it won’t happen in other countries.

This bill is a cause célèbre for celebrities. Kesha made a video with cute bunnies! Peter Dinklage is in on it and so is Colbie Cailet and Ricky Gervais and probably anyone else you ask. A poll done by Neilsen showed that 57% of Americans believe that being “cruelty free” is one of the most important labels they look for on their cosmetics. Hell, even Big Makeup is for it. Although, they made one little dig at the bill in the statement, noting, “Our industry has long advocated for government recognition and acceptance of alternative testing methods. Unfortunately, the Food & Drug Administration has not recognized many alternative tests – we hope removing this obstacle will emerge as a key provision of H.R. 2858.”

Zing!

Good luck, bunnies! Kesha and I are rooting for you.

Illustration by Tara Jacoby.