Marc Jacobs' Latest Isn't Particularly Inspired, But Gorgeous Nonetheless


In case it wasn’t already evident from Rebecca Taylor and Tracy Reese’s collections — or from all the high-waisted flared pants in the fall ladymags — fashion is feeling a seriously ’70s vibe just now. Marc Jacobs is no exception.

His collection, shown last night at the Lexington Avenue Armory, was a mix of clashing colors, patterns, and stripes.

Virtually all the models’ hair was styled into Taxi Driver curls, and — like at Erin Fetherston — there were scads of Iris Steensman-esque wide-brimmed hats.

There were plenty of flowing halterneck and one-shouldered dresses — many were cut so high on the hip that the models’ underwear was intentionally exposed.

But in addition to the more drape-y looks, there were plenty of more structured pieces.

Like safari jackets that tied with obi-style belts.

Mostly, though, it was nice to see a Jacobs collection with plenty of color in it. His past few seasons have been — not drab, exactly, but more muted, with lots of neutrals and greys and the occasional shot of ice blue or seafoam green. This spring’s mauves, golds, pinks and oranges are exciting by comparison.

Adding to the tropical feeling were the flowers the models wore in their hair, and the belts that, like this one, looked a little like flowers themselves.

Which isn’t to say that I loved everything. Orange satin overalls? As Tim Gunn would say, that’s a whole lotta look.

Naturally, there were hot pants.

The way that prints were used to reference the ’70s recalled Prada.

And this look reminded me a lot of Sonia Rykiel.

Most of all, however, the knits had a definite Missoni feel.

A series of color-blocked dresses in what looked to be silk taffeta, to me, very strongly referenced the work of the late American designer Charles Kleibacker, whose 70s creations still feel very modern.

It’s official: like it or not, fashion’s going to be pushing the bare midriff as a trend for spring.

If the whole thing felt like a less than entirely inspired quotation from fashion history, well, so be it: Jacobs still made a gorgeous selection of really dramatic clothes.

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