In recent weeks, we’ve taken on shoes and unmentionables. But what about everything else?
As they say, protect your investment. Even if buying clothes technically has nothing to do with the actual definition of investing, it’s still true that a few simple things will help your clothes live long and happy lives, no matter how pricey or budget. A few general pointers:
- Find a good drycleaner. You want one who changes its fluids regularly (read: no chemical smell on clothes), knows how to care for a range of fibers, and has good customer service. It’s worth looking around for someone you trust.
- When in doubt, always launder according to the primary fiber, even if it’s a mix.
- Care labels may be overly cautious — many will recommend dry-cleaning as a default — but they’re always a useful guideline when you’re not sure how to launder.
- Joan Crawford was right: Padded or plastic hangers are always better, even if it’s hard to resist those extras from the cleaners.
- Moths like the oils on clothes, so clean things before storing. Then, use anti-moth spray, cedar or lavender (or, I guess, mothballs if you’re nostalgic) when you store them. Cedar hangers are great, too.
- Try to avoid jamming your clothes together in the closet, even if this means rotating them.
Silk:
- Dry-Cleaning: Keep in mind that a lot of labels will rec this just to be on the safe side. And if you’re wary, sure, go for it. But dry-cleaning can take its toll on delicate fabrics, so don’t do it too often. Keep in mind that what can be dry-cleaned can usually be hand-washed. That said, some are hard to dry, so lighter silks like chiffon or repe de Chine, or anything hand-dyed, dry-cleaning is a good idea. Cheaper silks also need a light touch, so might be good dry-cleaning candidates. Just be sure you’re dry-cleaner’s good, and tell them that the garment’s silk so it’s not washed with rougher fabrics.
- Hand-Washing: When silk’s good quality, hand-washing can actually result in a really nice drape and patina. Keep in mind that natural fibers do best with consistent temperatures (otherwise they can shrink) so stick with lukewarm water throughout. Hand-wash as you would any delicates, usng a small amount gentle detergent like Ivory or shampoo. If the color is fading, try rinsing the silk with a splash of white vinegar; this will help prevent further fading.
- Machine Washing: In general, this should be your last resort, but if you’re short on time, just be sure to use a mesh delicates bag (or knotted pillowcase) and be sure your washing machine is clean, so as to avoid staining the fabric with soap. Use the same gentle detergent you would to hand-wash, and run it on the delicates cycle. If a color is faded or a white is yellowed, a capful of vinegar may help.
- Stains: Silk stains easily, so it’s important to tackle them ASAP. Sweat stains in partoicular can eat away at the fabric: if it’s a “fresh” (sorry) perspiration issue, try washing with a little ammonia dissolved in water. Otherwise, try the vinegar method.
- Drying: First, never use the dryer. The heat and the agitation are bad news for silk, or really any delicate. As with other delicates, roll silk in a towel and press it dry, then, depending on the weight, it can be hung (light silk) or laid down flat (heavier silk knits.) Do not wring it out. And dry away from direct sun or heat.
- Ironing: Iron silk while it’s still damp, or dampen before pressing. Avoid steam, however, which can stain. When in doubt, iron inside-out to avoid damaging. And, of course, if your iron has a “silk” or “delicates” setting, use it. Otherwise, just the lowest setting on an iron. Obviously, a steamer works very well.
- Storage Putting silk away? Don’t use plastic; instead, opt for something breathable, like a cotton pillowcase. It’s moth-bait, so think cedar, lavendaer, or mothballs for that thrift store aroma. Day to day, just let it breathe and keep it from snagging.
Wool (Coats and Suiting)