In Honor of Supermodel China Machado, Who Broke Racial Barriers in Fashion
In DepthChina Machado, iconic fashion model and fashion editor whose career began in the early 1950s and spanned the rest of her life, died Sunday due to cardiac arrest, WWD reports. She was 86 and fabulous to the end.
WWD’s chronicle of her life really encapsulates that fabulosity. Born in Shanghai to parents of Chinese and Portuguese descent, her life had many highlights, including running away with a world-famous bullfighter, moving to Paris and walking for Givenchy and Pierre Cardín, and becoming the first non-white model on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, as shot by her lifelong friend Richard Avedon. She eventually became the magazine’s Fashion Creative Director. Most recently, she launched Cheenawear, her own fashion collection—she modeled it, too.
The way Machado broke barriers in those early days of runway fashion is what’s most fascinating, both career-wise and as a woman of color starting out in the post-War years. She discussed some of this in the excellent 2012 documentary About Face, which focused on the models whose careers have lasted their whole lives. In one clip, she talks about being the highest-paid model in Europe in the 1950s—she received $100 a month—and the early origins of the intimidating runway walk. “You didn’t let the buyers touch your dress because they were trying to see what was inside,” she said. “And so you walked like you had an attitude, like ‘Don’t touch me.’ Not a smile on your face. You walked in and walked out.”